Photo by Krisanna ThomasPhoto by Krisanna ThomasPhoto by Mishayla BuchannanPhoto by Mishayla BuchannanPhoto by Mishayla Buchannan

South Central RC&D Sponors Gardening Workshop

    Bud Manke and Peggy Martin, co-owners of Cedar Creek Gardens for 10 years, hosted a gardening workshop that was sponsored by South Central RC&D on Monday, June 7. Cedar Creek Gardens is located two miles east and nine miles south of 1880 Town, off I90, near the White River and sits on about 14 acres. They raise and sell produce and farm fresh eggs and also make canned goods.     South Central Resource Conservation and Development Council (South Central RC&D), serves the Coun-ties of Jones, Mellette, Todd, and Tripp by offering education and support to  land conservation, water management, and commu-nity development.
    The workshop consisted of four speakers; Peggy Martin, co-owner Cedar Creek Gardens; Kristine Lang, Ph.D, Assistant Professor and Consumer Horticulture Extension Specialist; Kent Vlieger, NRCS State Soil Health Specialist; and Donna Adrian, Master Gardener.
    The workshop began with a short tour of the caterpillar tunnels (cat tunnel), structures used to protect plants from extreme weather and create an environment to start plants earlier and extend the growing season. Currently they house tomatoes, peppers, and lettuce. The lettuce cat tunnel has a special shade cloth as well to keep it cooler and offer protection from sunlight, as lettuce can be sensitive to too much sun. Peggy recommends investing in lettuce that has heat-resistant properties.

Caterpillar Tunnels -
Peggy Martin, co-owner Cedar Creek Gardens

    Peggy and Bud discussed some of the structural set-ups of the tunnels and how South Dakota weather can compromise them without proper care and maintenance. If a storm or high winds are approaching, it’s all hands on deck to batton down the tunnels.
    A caterpillar tent runs around $4,000 and Peggy suggested using a carport as an alternative for the home gardener.
    Also discussed was fertilizer and bug control. They use a mix of one tablespoon blackstrap molasses and one teaspoon epsom salt per gallon of water which helps with insect pests and also adds nutrients. The water hydrant has an injector with filter
siphon which metes out fertilizer in a 1 to 100 ratio.
    The weed control was also managed with biodegradable plastic tarps and/or landscaping fabric. Holes are easily made through the plastic using a propane torch to burn holes along the lines printed on the tarp.
    They use a nifty machine (pictured) to plant most of their crops, but when planting by hand Peggy shared a useful tip about their use of tulip bulb planters to easily create holes for other seeds.

Soil Health Gardening -
Kent Vlieger, NRCS
State Soil Health Specialist
    
    Kent recommended the first step would be to go https://websoilsurvey.sc.egov.usda.gov/App/HomePage.htm and check your location on a soil map to learn what kind of soil you are working with.
    A soil analysis report is also beneficial to understand the nutrients that are present in your garden soil. It will tell you the levels of sulphur, manganese, magnesium, phosphorus, calcium, potassium, nitrogen, and many more. A Muldur’s Chart shows synergist and antagonist nutrients and will help you understand how to adjust it to your soil’s needs. For instance, South Dakota soil tends to be high in calcium which inhibits the intact of iron and phosphorous. When getting information about how to treat your soil it would be wise to get recommendations from an independent source and not where you are purchasing your fertilizer.
    Another test you’ll want to perform is the Haney Test. This shows nutrients in the soil being released by organisms and micro-organisms. The way this test works is by measuring the amount of carbon dioxide present - the more carbon dioxide present, the more microbial activity this would indicate. Contact your local extension office for more information.
    There are five principles of soil health:
    • Keep soil covered to prevent erosion
    • Minimize soil disturbance by reducing tillage
    • Plant diversity; rotate to limit disease
    • Continual live root/plant to create a sustainable source of food for the organisms in the soil
    • Livestock integration; Fertilizer and pest control
    Kent also suggested dedicating a quarter of your garden to a yearly cover crop for weed control, good soil, and to prevent water and wind erosion.

Cover Crops -
Kristine Lang, Ph.D,
Assistant Professor and
Consumer Horticulture
Extension Specialist

    Kristine talked about what kind of cover crops to use in your garden. Choosing a cover crop would be based on what your garden needs as well as what season it is.
    If you are looking for more pollinators or to control insect pests you would want to look for non-legume broadleaf or flowering cover crops.  
    To break up soil compaction a cover crop with a long taproot - such as those in the radish family. Some cover crops wouldn’t be recommended for a cover crop in the home/garden area due to excessive height or thickness.
    Cover crops are often used for weed control as well. Grasses specifically, can control weeds by being great competitors for nutrients and because they germinate quickly.
    Using a cover crop as a mulch is also an option. You can knock it down or mow it down to create a nice flat area for produce like melon to grow. It also prevents soil splash and helps with weed suppression.
    Kristine says, “Think about your cover crop as a crop”. Plant with care and care for the crop as though you will be harvesting. She suggests if you are taking a break from your garden for a year or more to plant a cover crop to keep your soil healthy and protected.
    She especially stressed ensuring germination by making sure there is seed to ground contact. You can rake the seed in or use a seed planter - get creative. Top dress the seeds with a fine layer of compost or straw. And water, water, water.
    The SDSU extension office offers a garden hotline that you can call with questions or concerns. 605-626-2876.

Gardening Made Easier -
Donna Adrian,
Master Gardener

     Donna’s approach to gardening is all about making it approachable by getting creative - utilizing what you have, and making it easier - “less weeds, less work, less water”.
    She recommends taking the time to plan by setting reminders for when to start certain plants, recording when, where, and what you planted, and keeping records of your harvest. Taking time to map out your site is important too.
    Choosing a site that is close to your home will make things a lot more convenient for you to get out in your garden to water, weed, or harvest. She encourages you to “change the way you think” about gardening. For instance, rather than the typical rows of produce, you can widen the rows to accomodate three or more plants and get more production. You can utilize pallets as planters, build raised beds, or plant in containers, planters, old mineral tubs, tires, and even five gallon buckets.
    Donna recommends that a first time gardener starts with the square foot gardening method. Start by making a plot that is 4’ x4’. You can be creative with what you make this out of; wood, bricks, tires, cement blocks... the list goes on!
    Vertical gardens are great for fence areas and yard corners. Additionally, when it’s time to harvest your crops, vertical gardens eliminate the need for kneeling or crouching.
    She also touched a bit on hugelkultur (hoo-gul-culture). Hugelkultur is a German word for mound or hill. It consists of fallen branches, trees, shrubs, etc as the base, with a grass/leaf layer next, followed by a compost layer. A layer of soil goes on last for planting. If you build it tall enough (keep adding layers of mulch and compost) you will have a garden that grows without irrigation or fertilization.
    Since traditional gardening disturbs the natural underground ecosystem a no till approach is beneficial. Donna says, “Let the critters do the tilling... and fertilizing!” To prevent the earth from packing too tightly never walk on where you plant and keep it covered with mulch - straw, grass clippings, cardboard and newspaper are a few examples of what you can use.
    When choosing a weed barrier or mulch, newspaper or cardboard is preferred over your usual landscaping tarp, because the insects will still beable to reach the soil. Thus protecting your plants and keeping the soil’s ecosystem healthy.
     To conserve water Donna never uses sprinklers. She prefers a soaker hose, covered in mulch to prevent evaporation and protect the plants from splash. A drip line is another option and something you can custom make for your needs. The rule of thumb for the amount of water to give your plants is 1 in. per week.
    There are three main things you want in your fertilizer. Nitrogen will make your plants greener. Phosphorus will benefit your roots and root plants, and potassium creates overall healthy plants. Donna says that just plain, well-rotted manure will provide these nutrients.
    A three year crop rotation is a simple way to rotate your root, fruit, and leaf produce. For instance tomatoes, lettuce, and radish would rotate over after three years to refresh the soil and help limit species-specific disease.
    Incorporating a cover crop or a mulch into your pathways is an excellent way to keep weeds down and increase the visual appeal of your garden. The right cover crop will also help raise soil carbon content and improve soil structure. Planting flowers to attract pollinators also will boost production and looks beautiful!
    Donna became a Master Gardener in 1997 by taking the course through SDSU. They currently have the course available once a year online at https://extension. sdstate.edu/garden-yard/master-gardener-volunteer-program.

The Pioneer Review

221 E. Oak Street
Philip, SD 57567
Telephone: (605) 859-2516
E Mail: ads@pioneer-review.com

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